Exploring Traditional Zen Buddhist Garments

In Zen Buddhism, simplicity and form are not just aesthetic preferences—they are essential parts of the practice. This reverence for form extends to the traditional Zen Buddhist garments worn by practitioners, both lay and ordained.

These vestments carry centuries of meaning, a connection to lineage, and a reminder of the vows taken. Whether it’s the ceremonial kesa, the humble samue, or the practical zagu, these garments help practitioners embody the path of Zen, inside and out.

Here we will explore some of the most important clothing items in Zen, their historical roots, and what they symbolize today. For interested practitioners and ordained people, robes, rakusus, and more—all made locally in the Pacific Northwest—are available from Still Sitting.

Rakusu

The rakusu is perhaps the most recognizable lay garment in Zen: a small, rectangular bib-like robe worn around the neck. It is traditionally sewn by hand and given during jukai, the ceremony where a lay practitioner formally receives the precepts. Each rakusu represents a miniaturized version of the kesa and carries great symbolic weight.

Originally developed so that lay followers or traveling monks could wear the Dharma close to the heart without donning full robes, the rakusu reminds wearers of their vows and their place in the lineage of practitioners stretching back to the Buddha. Each sect and lineage may vary slightly in design, but the rakusu remains a symbol of commitment and humility.

Still Sitting offers both a Rinzai rakusu and Soto rakusu, as well as a custom made rakusu that is crafted in collaboration with the practitioner.

Kesa

The kesa is the full outer robe traditionally worn by ordained monks and priests. Its origins trace back to India, where it was made from discarded cloth stitched together and dyed a humble saffron or brown. In Japan, the kesa evolved into a highly structured and often elaborately sewn garment, still maintaining its foundational design of patched cloth.

Wearing a kesa is a sacred act. It represents a deep vow to live according to the Dharma and to uphold the teachings of Buddhism. The robe is worn during formal ceremonies and zazen, often draped over one shoulder in the classical style. For those who wear it, the kesa is both protection and offering—a daily reminder of the monastic path.

Zagu

The zagu is a rectangular mat used by Zen practitioners when performing bows or prostrations. Made from durable cloth and sometimes adorned with patchwork or patterns, the zagu represents a clean space and a gesture of respect for the practice and the teachings.

When used in ceremonies or personal practice, the zagu is laid on the ground and bowed upon. Its use expresses reverence and mindfulness, even in the smallest actions. In some traditions, practitioners sew their own zagu, infusing it with intention and care.

Robes: Hakama and Kimono

Traditional Zen robes include a kimono and hakama, both adapted from historical Japanese dress. The kimono, a T-shaped robe with wide sleeves, serves as an undergarment in formal practice. Over this, the hakama—pleated pants or a skirt-like robe—is worn to allow for ease of movement and a dignified appearance.

These garments are typically black or brown, symbolizing simplicity and non-attachment. Their quiet elegance reflects the Zen ideal: form without extravagance, presence without ego.

Robes are often worn with a white collar, known as a juban collar or eri, which lies beneath the outer robe and wraps around the neck and upper chest. On formal occasions, such as ceremonies, a white under-robe may also be worn beneath the main robe.

Still Sitting offers a full lay robe set as well as a full ceremonial under robe.

Samue: from Zen monasteries to modern day

While many traditional Zen Buddhist garments are ceremonial in nature, the samue, or samugi, originated as the everyday workwear of Zen monks in Japan. Worn during samu—the physical work that supports monastic life such as cleaning, gardening, and cooking—the samue represents the integration of mindfulness into every action. 

Traditionally made from cotton or linen and dyed in subdued tones like indigo or brown, the samue was designed for comfort and practicality. Loose-fitting and breathable, it allows for movement while maintaining simplicity. In temples and home dojos alike, the samue embodies a spirit of quiet, grounded attention.

Today, the samue is worn not only by monks but also by lay practitioners, teachers, and anyone drawn to its comfort and minimalist form. It is as at home in the meditation hall as it is in a quiet garden or study. For many, it has become a symbol of the meditative lifestyle—a way to embody practice beyond the cushion.

Samue Garments from Still Sitting

At Still Sitting, we offer carefully crafted samue sets made from high-quality materials in traditional colors. Designed for comfort and durability, with a simple elegance, our samue reflect the spirit of Zen—unadorned, mindful, and quietly strong.

Here are a few of our most popular samue offerings:

• Linen Samue Collection – Made from 5.5 oz European linen, dyed and finished in the USA. These lightweight garments breathe beautifully and soften with each wear. Ideal for warm weather or indoor practice.
• Kyoto Collection – A refined version of the samue inspired by traditional Japanese tailoring. Made from beautiful textiles imported from Japan, this collection is elegant and comfortable.
• Everyday Samue – Our classic cotton samue set: comfortable, durable, and designed for daily practice, outdoor work, or lounge wear.
• Medium Weight Samue – A soft and rugged garment that is slightly heavier than the everyday samue. It is perfect for fall weather or colder climates.
  
• Each piece is crafted to be more than just clothing—it’s an invitation to embody mindfulness in motion.

Take a moment to explore our full selection of samue, all designed and crafted in the Pacific Northwest. 

For an even more in-depth look at traditional Zen Buddhist garments, we recommend this article from the Terebess Center.

Stay engaged with more insightful stories from Still Sitting:

Samue: A Dynamic, Traditional Meditation Garment
Choosing The Right Samue For You